10 Tips for Improving Fuel Efficiency
10 Tips for Improving Fuel Efficiency 1] Slow Down On The highway Your car is optimized to drive at 40-60mph(80-100km/hr), when you drive 70-80+mph fuel efficiency drops by up to a whooping 33% . Yes 33% , that is not a typo. I had heard this before and thought it was an exaggeration, then I drove the new Chevrolet Cobalt which has a fuel efficiency gauge in it and I saw it first hand, what a surprise. Is it worth speeding to save 5 minutes off your commute to work so you can just get held up in city traffic? Between the lost fuel efficiency, the extra wear and tear on the car driving beyond optimized speeds and inherent safety concerns I will need a good reason to start speeding on the highway from now on. 2] Cruise In The City The same idea applies in city driving. Speeding up to make the next red light guzzles gas and is hard on your car. This can decrease fuel efficiency by 5%. Why hurry up just to make the next red light? Let’s face it, speeding in the city doesn’t get you anywhere’s faster. If you drive like a bat out of hell you might make an extra light or two and chop a mere 2-4 minutes off your commute assuming you make it there alive. I drive at sane speeds throughout the city while most others fly by me and hard brake at the next red light, I then pull up beside them or even pass them as I may not of needed to stop as the lights are usually synchronized for sane driving speeds not surprisingly (it also takes more gas to get back up to speed than to maintain it). So have some fun watching people fly by you and seeing them at the next red light knowing your car is much better off. 3] Tire Pressure Here’s one everyone can do easily. It only takes a couple minutes to check your tires pressure. Under inflated tires can result in 3% less fuel efficiency. 4] Link Your Trips/Errands Plan your trip to include as many destinations or errands as possible. Fewer trips means less cold starts, better fuel efficiency and less driving than multiple small trips. 5] Avoid Unnecessary Idling. You’re getting 0 mpg for this one. If you’re going to wait 5-10 minutes for a friend give your car and wallet a break. For those who live in colder climates this is a bigger issue. We all want our cars toasty warm in the winter time when we get inside. Today’s cars really only needs 30 second of idling to warm up even in cold weather, then 1-2 minutes of driving to get it fully warmed up. So bundle up and save yourself a bundle. 6] Maintain Your Car Inexpensive oil and air filter changes can boost your cars performance and increase your cars lifespan. A blocked air filter can decrease fuel efficiency by as much as 10% and a misfiring spark plug won’t help either. So try to follow your cars service manual.. It beats dealing with an unexpected major repair and major inconvenience.. 7] Monitor Your Fuel efficiency I like to measure how many miles / KM I get on half a tank after filling it up. It’s easier to measure this way as we don’t let our gas tanks completely run dry and its impossible to estimate how much was left when you fill it up again. You can see how your driving habits affect your fuel economy and if your habits haven’t changed and you fuel economy drops off, then maybe its time for some car maintenance. Purchasing a fuel consumption gauge (if you car doesn’t already have one) can give you real time feedback and more accurate reading. This provides great instant feedback on driving habits. 8] Remove Unnecessary Items From Your Car For each extra 100lbs you lose 1-2% fuel efficiency, so get the golf clubs out of the trunk until your next tee off time. Leaving items on your roof rack also creates extra drag which makes your car work harder, so lock your mountain bikes up till the next trip. 9] Jack Rabbit Starts Some people like to suddenly accelerate by putting their foot to the floor. This guzzles gas and gives marginal speed improvement to a gradual acceleration. 10] Back Off Tail gating results in unnecessary breaking and accelerating. Hang back a little more and you can avoid the added stress and save some gas. It’s also safer to drive this way, give yourself an extra second to avoid an accident ! Paul Fezziwig writes for and administers 'Green Cars Now', http://www.greencarsnow.com , a website devoted to promoting fuel efficient vehicles and better driving habits.
Source: www.ArticlePros.com
Igniting a Spark
Your Volvo has thousands of parts in it. Some play a crucial role in the car, while others do not. Some are used all the time, while some are needed only for a specific time. One of the latter is your Volvo’s ignition coil. Also called a spark coil, the ignition coil is an induction coil in the automobile’s ignition system. The Volvo ignition coil transforms a storage battery’s 12 volts into the thousands (which sometimes could reach as high as 120,000 volts) needed to ignite the spark plugs. Invented by A. Kent Atwater in 1921, the ignition coil is a simple transformer that has two sides: the 12 volt or primary side and the high voltage or secondary side. The primary side contains a few hundred turns of a large diameter wire and it builds up the magnetic field in the coils. On the other hand, the high voltage side contains thousands of turns of small diameter wire. The coil uses electromagnetic induction to create the high voltage. When the voltage in the primary side is turned off, the collapsing magnetic field in the secondary side induces a voltage in the secondary side, producing thousands of volts. In older vehicles, a single, large ignition coil would serve all the spark plugs, distributing voltage via an ignition distributor. In modern systems, the distributor is omitted and ignition is controlled electronically, instead. Much smaller coils are used with one coil for each spark plug or one coil serving two spark plugs (so two coils in a four-cylinder car). These coils may be remote-mounted or they may be placed on top of the spark plug (coil-on-plug or direct injection). Where one coil serves two spark plugs (in two cylinders), it is through the “wasted spark” system. In this arrangement, the coil generates two sparks per cycle to both the cylinders. The fuel in the cylinder that is nearing the end of its compression stroke is ignited, whereas, the spark in its companion nearing the end of its exhaust stroke has no effect. The wasted spark system is more reliable than a single coil system with a distributor and cheaper than coil-on-plug. Where the coils are remote mounted, they may all be contained in a single molded block with multiple high-tension terminals. This is commonly called a coil-pack. Your Volvo ignition coils are part of a larger system, which is the ignition system. The ignition system is part of an even larger engine system. The ignition system’s primary responsibility is the timely burning of the fuel-air mixture in the engine. Your Volvo user’s manual would carry the recommended service interval for your ignition system, including your Volvo ignition coil. Your Volvo engine might run rough, buck, surge, stall or even get poor fuel economy. These are signs that your ignition system might need servicing as they are potentially an ignition system problem. When this happens, drive to the nearest Volvo dealership and have a qualified technician take a look around. Your Volvo engine might be in problem in the long run. John Garrett is an automobile mechanic who knows every crook and cranny of his truck. He's also a vintage car enthusiast , and he's dedicated to fixing and restoring them. He is a motorist who believes in continuous research and improvement.
Source: www.ArticlePros.com
Finding BMW Spares Can Be Easy
BMW is a well established brand in the automotive industry. This makes finding BMW spares easier for the back yard mechanic. The local breaker or salvage yard is a great place to start looking for that special part you might need. There are all kinds of undiscovered treasures lurking inside the gates of these facilities. Even better, the price of the salvage parts is usually much less than from other sources. There are some things to think about when you decide to purchase a BMW spare that is salvaged. Most important is the safety of the part. Anything structural should probably be purchased new. It is hard to tell what kind of microscopic damage could have happened during whatever accident brought the original car to the salvage. When it comes to safety, play it safe. Pay the extra money to purchase from a reputable dealer. An added bonus is that new purchases often come with a warranty. BMW spares can also be bought on the cheap over the internet. Online auction sites, like EBay, often offer the one part you must have. To save guard your investment in these parts, check the history of the seller. It is usually a good idea not to buy big ticket items from a seller you don t know. Buying BMW spares, or any automotive spares, online can also get you with hidden costs. Shipping and handling for the heavy parts can sometimes run more than the part itself. Search around, read the fine print, and compare the total cost with something you could get locally. You may be surprised to find out that local is actually the least expensive way of doing business. Because of the popularity of some automobiles, it is usually easy to find cars to fix up and the parts to do it with. BMW spares can be found online at shops, online at auction sites, and locally at breakers and salvage yards. Look around and find the best price for the part you need. Kathryn Lang is a freelance writer covering the motoring industry. She has written various articles on <a href="http://www.247spares.co.uk/bmw">BMW parts</a> and <a href="http://www.legalstreets.com/bmw/">BMW cars</a> in general.
Source: www.ArticlePros.com
